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 Macau guide
Macau is a weird place that feels like it should not really exist. This tiny enclave is an unlikely mix of two completely
alien cultures – Chinese and Portuguese. After the Portuguese dropped anchor in 1557 and blew away the local pirates,
China permitted the Europeans to administer just enough land to park few galleons. Macau was Europe's first foothold in
Asia and the gateway to China until the Opium Wars in the 19th century led to the concession of Hong Kong.
It was finally handed back in 1999, but 400 years saw plenty of Latin influence and there are many interesting historical
remnants. Macau is a surreal hybrid, an intriguing canvas of ornate Portuguese flair and Chinese tradition and a unique
pocket of Asia. Fine examples of centuries-old colonial architecture include the famous ruined faade of St Paul's
Cathedral, the symbol of Macau. Other colonial examples include the Guia lighthouse, and there are historic Chinese
highlights such as incense-filled Ah Ma Temple.
Hong Kong lies just an hour away by jetfoil and the overflow of wealth basically powers the Macau economy. It has evolved
from a trade base and port into a Chinese leisure centre with thousands shuttling over for weekend city breaks. Casinos
are the big magnet for Chinese visitors with many getting no further than this smoky and murky world. A whopping 50
per cent of Macau's revenue and a quarter of the labour market are tied up in the trade. These are not glitzy Las Vegas
razzmatazz showpieces, but more gritty and serious with shady characters and grim expressions. Prostitution is also big
business here with scores of girls from over the border (and more recently Eastern Europe) strutting around the casinos.
With all this going on triad gangs are active, although they have kept their heads down since stern China resumed power.
But it is not all about gambling and groping. Macau has an identity of its own and an undeniable charm and warmth. The
pace is a welcome step down from Hong Kong and then there is the indulgence of Portuguese food and wine. The combination
of Portuguese and Chinese food has resulted in Macanese cuisine. And although it is difficult to get excited about a bread
roll, the bread here is some of the best in Asia. Beyond the dining and sightseeing is golf, legitimate bone-cracking
massages and the annual Grand Prix – plenty for such a modest pimple of land.
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