Australia travel guide

Australia guide

The traditional image of a dinki-di Aussie – whether a gleaming, muscled Bondi lifesaver or laconic, bush-hatted sheep shearer – has gradually been shouldered aside over the past few decades. Nowadays the ironic 'ocker' could easily be one of the prancing entrants in the annual Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras parade. Or perhaps even one of the many recent Asian immigrants – from Vietnam, China or further afield – who have done much to add to the cosmopolitan mlange of the "Lucky Country". But the essence of Australia remains unchanged.

This vast continent (7,686,848 square kilometres) ranges between desert and tropical rainforest, sophisticated urban areas with sprawling suburbs and isolated townships in the bush, stunning mountains and lush pasture. Australians enjoy a magnificent outdoor lifestyle, with a play-hard, work-hard (well, sometimes, mate) attitude that makes the most of its natural bounty. German immigrants planted the vineyards that have granted Barossa Valley wines world renown, the waves of Italian and Greek settlers did much to promote Australian cuisine beyond meat pies and beer, while Japanese finance helped to open up the Gold Coast. In other words, some of the best that the world has to offer is distilled into Australia.

With the possible exception of the purpose-built and rather soulless capital, Canberra, all the Antipodean metropoli exude their own character and allure to the casual visitor. Sydney is first port of call for many, and indeed where the first British convicts were dumped in the 18th century. The whole city is inspired and refreshed by its raison d'etre, the harbour. Overlooked by the architectural masterpiece of the Opera House, it acts as a focal point for dining and relaxation, and is the centre of attention during major events such as the annual Sydney-Hobart yacht race. Melbourne has always seen itself as a rival, and while it lacks the spectacular location it has as much charm and sophistication, especially when it comes to theatre and cuisine, and is equally devoted to sports, horse-racing and 'footy' to name but two. Adelaide, long known as the place for culture, has shaken off its previously staid image, and Brisbane, once derided as an overgrown country town, has become increasingly cosmopolitan after hosting a string of international events like the Commonwealth Games. Even Darwin, with a certain amount of cinematic assistance from Crocodile Dundee, has some claim to "cool", although the weather is as hot as ever. Perth claims to be the sunniest of Australian cities, and even rain cannot damp its bright and breezy ethos. Cairns acts as the jumping off point for most of northern Queensland, notably to the stunning beauties of the Great Barrier Reef and the rainforest of Cape Tribulation. Alice Springs, more or less in the centre of the continent, would probably not feature on any itinerary but for the proximity of Uluru, otherwise known as Ayers Rock – the outback's ultimate landmark and a sacred site for Australia's original inhabitants, the Aborigines. Mention should also be made of Australia's offshore islands, from the slightly other-worldly Tasmania to the hedonistic Hayman in the Whitsundays, which is also a prime venue for whale watching and scuba diving.

Most of Australia's 18 million inhabitants live in the coastal areas, so it follows that this is where the best hotels are. For location – right under the Harbour Bridge and looking on the Opera House – it would be hard to better the Park Hyatt in Sydney, and up on the Gold Coast the Palazzo Versace is an intriguing jeu d' esprit of very modish accommodation. Head inland, and the main places to lay your head are bland motels or beery country pubs, where service echoes the old Australian ethos of 'I'm as good as you are, mate.' Between these two stellar stools is a range of decent resorts well placed to make the best of Down Under's natural assets of sun, sand and sea.

The weather varies immensely over such a vast continent, but all of Australia is hot in the summer between December and February, and the north is especially humid. It is best to time visits to the "Top End" during the cooler winter (June – August) and this is also when the snowfields of Victoria and New South Wales open up. In spring, large stretches of the outback are carpeted with wildflowers. Hotels are often booked solid over Easter, Christmas and other school holidays.

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