Sri Lanka City Guide

City Guide
Introduction   |   Attractions   |   Museums   |   Nature  |   Shopping   |   Cyber Sri Lanka  |   Tours  |   Getting from A to B   |   Events

Introduction
Most visitors come away from Sri Lanka raving about the island. The beaches are fantastic, they say, you can splurge on some really marvellous shopping, the people are genuinely friendly, the landscapes and ancient monuments are awesome, there are some really great hotels, the colonial heritage is charming. And so on and so forth, ad infinitum. And they're right. Why?

"Serendipity" is a bit of a mouthful, and rarely used in day to day speech. But it comes from Serendip - the old name for this lovely island off the southern tip of India - and its meaning - making happy discoveries by chance - fits Sri Lanka to a tea (small pun intended). Wander where you will, from the streets of Colombo - still the only city of note - to plantations in the hill country, from the 300-year-old walled fort in Galle to the ruins of Pollonaruwa, and you will experience serendipity at first hand.

The only fly in the ointment, and it's a pretty sizeable insect, is the ongoing unrest created by Tamil separatists based in the north of the island. Peace talks continue somewhat haphazardly but it is probably advisable to check the situation before travelling. The east coast is still very much less developed as a result of the troubles, and there may be some danger of unexploded ordinance in the region. For once, it makes sense to stick to the beaten track here.

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Attractions
It's by no means overstating the case to say that just about everything is an attraction here.

Sigiriya rock

The country's only international airport lies outside Colombo, so the capital marks the start and finish of every trip to Sri Lanka. The city has been somewhat battered about in recent years with terrorist bombs making inroads on what was a fairly shaky infrastructure in the first place. Truth to tell, while Colombo exercises a certain charm there isn't a great deal to see here compared to the delights of the rest of the island. The Galle Face Hotel is Asia's oldest Grande Dame, with deliciously antique staff tottering about the place and the most splendid views out over the ocean. Galle Face Green is Colombo's main seaside promenade, always a hive of activity (though beware of the highly implausible touts who hang around here). The district known as Fort forms the centre of town, and both here and the adjacent Pettah are worth a morning's exploration. Excursions north to Negombo and south to Mount Lavinia are both possible, but Colombo's main role is to act as a jumping off point for the rest of the country.

Sticking to the west coast, the general rule is that the further south you travel, the better the beaches and the less developed their immediate surrounds. Hikkaduwa has been well and truly "resorted", but you'll see fewer Lonely Planet-toting tourists at other, smaller beach hangouts. Galle is one of the most intriguing ports of call, with its 300-year-old fort forming the historic heart and a working fishing fleet adding some pungent character, note though the beaches in the area are not the best.

Ayurvedic theraphy

Further inland, Sri Lanka reveals even greater diversity. More or less in the centre of the island the cultural triangle around Polonnaruwa is a window into the island's amazing history. The rock fortress at Sigiriya, the Buddhist shrines of Anuradhapura, Dambulla's cave temples and the stone ruins of Polonnaruwa are all musts on any itinerary. Some way to the south, the city of Kandy is home to a spectacular temple containing the sacred tooth of the Buddha. The climate is a lot cooler up here in hill country, contrasting sharply with temperatures down on the coast.

The town of Ratnapura is the core of the island's gem mining industry, while Nuwara Eliya - a one-time hill station - still retains an air of calm and gentility. Surfers flock to Arugam Bay on the east coast, while for hikers and safari types there are broad acres to explore inland. Adam's Peak (2,224 metres) is a popular climb.

One of the attractions that is available almost everywhere in Sri Lanka is a really excellent massage - whether it's for a few rupees from a local barber or at an upmarket spa for a significantly higher price. Ayurvedic practitioners are numerous here, and it would be tragic not to take advantage of their skills - after all, there's no better antidote to a busy day's sightseeing!

Finally, Jaffna and Trincomalee - the Tamil heartlands on the north eastern coast, remain out of bounds for all but the most adventurous. Nilaveli Beach, which lies between the two, is said to be one of the most lovely beaches in Asia.

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Museums

Lanka is not exactly famed for its "Great Indoors". Lack of funds is the most likely excuse for museums which, while not really lacklustre are not world-class by any means. Worth seeing, if not exactly worth going to see are the national museums in Colombo and Kandy and the archaeological museum at Anuradhapura. Galle Fort contains three museums, devoted to maritime matters, the Dutch period and cultural affairs. Outside Galle it's worth dropping in on the Martin Wickramasinghe Folk Art Museum, which is built around the author's former residence and includes an extensive exhibition of all things folk that is very well interpreted. Admission charges at all of the above are cheap, to say the least!

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Elephant safari

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Nightlife and Eating Out
Asked what he liked to do at night, a long-time expat resident with a house outside Galle pondered for a moment before replying: "Well, we are getting satellite soon".

Anyone expecting crazy nights filled with hard rocking, bar hopping and plenty of happenings is in for a bit of a let down anywhere outside the capital. While there are some beach bars and the like in popular tourist spots such as Bentota, elsewhere nightlife falls very much into the traditional do-it-yourself variety. Chuck in official monthly temperance days and you can see why Lanka ain't exactly buzzin' after hours.

It's a different story in Colombo. The first step for any recent arrival is to pick up a copy of "Leisure Times" (aka LT) a free monthly listings magazine with more inside scoop than Haagen-Dazs. After years when a virtual civil war blighted the entire country, Colombo is finally carving out a bit of after-hours action for itself, and LT has its finger very much on the contemporary pulse.

Galviharaya

Food wise, as well as the local cuisine, the restaurant scene bridges much of the world, so you can take your pick of Chinese, Korean, Continental, Thai et al, all of which are exceptionally reasonably priced. Gallery is one of the most popular trendy eateries but more are coming on stream each month. The number of bars to hang out in grows by the day, and there is quite a social scene in the cafes attached to shops like Barefoot, where jazz bands sometimes play in the evenings.

When it comes to nightclubs, Colombo is a bit of a throwback to the 70s. Most of the places to kick up your heels are attached to the major hotels, and - if not exactly staid - certainly lack the spontaneity and buzz of more modern independent clubs in other parts of the world. Expect a fair mix of golden oldies, some local tunes, rap, garage and the like from the turntable. Note that groups of young males can get a little out of order, and it's best not to get in their way. Perhaps the best aspect of clubbing Colombo is that the music can go on all night.

Other entertainments of note in the capital include five casinos, exclusive in that they are choosy about who they let inside rather than for the Las Vegas style glamour. Rather less pricey are the pool and billiards halls around town which are highly popular.

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Shopping
Retail therapists of the world rejoice - there's more shopping in Sri Lanka than you could have dreamed possible. And it's inexpensive. And they take credit cards. What are you waiting for?

Starting in Colombo, you can get a very good idea of what's on offer at snazzy stores like Odel, Barefoot, Plantation Road and Elephant Walk. Clothing, homewares, souvenirs, furniture and knickknacks are all laid out in profusion. Each of these also comes with somewhere to eat, drink and put your feet up, so you can pace yourself rather than shop till you drop.

The markets of Pettah, while crammed with goods, are more somewhere to browse than actually buy.

As a result of the large number of English speakers, there are several excellent bookstores in Colombo, with the Taprobane chain being one of the best stocked.

Up country, there are reams of handicrafts, and of course tea makes a tasty memento. Away from mainstream stores and tourist outlets, bargaining is by no means frowned upon, and it never hurts to ask if prices are fixed or not.

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Cyber Sri Lanka
The Internet is an unknown quantity in much of Sri Lanka. Some of the larger hotels in Colombo have high-speed access. At independent cyber cafes you can spend a very long time looking at a screen on which nothing much is happening. If you don't really need to log on why not wait till you get home?

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Stilt Fishing

Tours
A word of warning; it's tempting to try and pack all of Sri Lanka into a couple of weeks. Gallivanting on the bus and off the bus from Colombo up to the Cultural Triangle, down through Kandy onto a beach before dashing to the airport. Phew, we've DONE Sri Lanka. With a somewhat shaky infrastructure, travel can be wearing, so it makes sense to pace yourself. Numerous companies offer tours around the island, with Aitken Spence being one of the most well known. Specialist tours - archaeology, bird watching etc - are also available. See Sri Lanka is one big tour, the trick is to choose the pace and destinations which suit you.

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Getting from A to B
The train, plane and automobile system in Sri Lanka lags behind much of the rest of Asia, however there are signs that improvements are on the way. But they are just signs…

The domestic air network currently extends no further than a single link between Jaffna and Colombo, however there are other airfields around the country so it is simply a matter of time before they are opened up.

The train system is a colonial legacy, extending north, south and east from Colombo however while ticket prices are low so are most trains' speeds. Chiefly an option for railway buffs on a budget.

This leaves the roads, which is the way most visitors tend to get around. If you are not on an organised tour, hiring a car is relatively inexpensive. Cars come with drivers attached firmly to the steering wheel, which given the general disregard for the Highway Code is no bad thing. Plus a driver will also act as guide, interpreter and an entree into the local culture. It's worth picking a vehicle that is comfortable and well upholstered, as there are almost as many potholes as palm trees on the island and highways stretch to two lanes at the best of times. Short hops rather than marathon drive-athons make for a much better holiday.

In Colombo and other cities such as Galle, the larger hotels usually have a fleet of limousines on call, however their charges are precisely what you might expect from such monopolies. The alternative is the tuk-tuk, three-wheeled supermarket trolleys with an engine, a seat and a hood plus a pilot who may or may not think he knows where he's going. If possible get directions and addresses in local script (though these may not be of much use even among the literate) and do a bit of map reading yourself. Fares are of the 'think of a number and double it' variety, especially for foreigners, so hone your bargaining skills.

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Events
Given its eclectic ethnic mix, it's no surprise that Sri Lanka serves up a regular smorgasbord of events throughout the year.

Kicking off the year in January, Colombo kicks up its heels with Duruthu Perahera, which commemorates a visit by Buddha;

National Day (February) is an occasion for parades, dances and other heavily organised celebration; New Year in March is marked with elephant races and pillow fights, while the full moon in May - Vesak - is a time to celebrate Buddha's birth, death and enlightenment.

The most spectacular event of the year -- Esala Perahera in July or August - brings Kandy to a colourful standstill, with magnificent processions honouring the Sacred Tooth Temple.

Two Hindu festivals in Colombo, Vel and Kataragama - also in July or August and both highly photogenic - bring the events calendar to a close.

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