Baguio, Philippines

City Guide

Introduction  |   Attractions  |   Entertainment and Eating Out  |   Tourist Information Offices  |   Shopping  |   Getting from A to B  |   Tours  |   Cyber Baguio  |   Events

Introduction

Banaue Rice Terraces

Baguio sits at the Cordillera Mountain Range 5,000 feet above sea level in the Northern part of Luzon Island. Filipinos have favoured this city for its nippy weather which at times can drop to freezing temperatures during December to February. During the American occupation, it was annointed as the summer capital, developing the city as an R&R facility for officials and soldiers who could not bear the stifling heat of the summer in the lowlands.

Lovely as its weather can be, the same accolades can not be said on what the city has to offer. Baguio's attractions have been stripped of its lustre as the city grapples with the ill effects of modernisation. Parks and landmarks have deteriorated. Heavy traffic and smog hangs over the city centre whilst shopping malls have brought in a chaotic wave of commercialism amongst the growing population. Cases of street theft have also swelled prompting good-minded locals to warn unsuspecting visitors to be cautious when exploring the city.

Still, Baguio has a bit of charm left found in the steady stream of strawberries, fresh vegetables, some varieties of which are not available in Manila's markets, and handicrafts that are traditionally made by the endemic Igorot tribes. Also, the city is not known as the "gateway to the north" for nothing. It serves as a good starting point to more idyllic retreats in the Ifugao and Mountain Provinces. A day is enough to spend in Baguio to see the sights and take in the culture then allow three more days to explore the rice terraces of Banaue and hanging coffins of Sagada. Climbing afficionados also set up camp for the night en route to a 2-day hike up Mt. Pulog, the second highest peak in the country.

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Attractions
Sightseeing is limited to only a handful of attractions, the hub of which is the rectangular-shaped Burnham Park also serving as the main venue for parades, concerts and other events due to its central location. Boat rides in the man-made lagoon are available for a fee whilst local kids favour bike rides around the park. The water level in the lagoon tends to go down during dry months. Locals also enjoy having picnics in the park grounds. Strolling can be far from leisurely as individuals toting cameras will offer to take your souvenir picture at a cost and some religious groups also tend to invite you to their small discussions. Local sports events are also held in the tennis/basketball courts and athletic oval nearby.

Baguio's winding roads

Wright Park is famed for its pony rides that can take one on a trip to more attractions that are important though not remarkable highlights of Baguio -- The Mansion, the presidential house with its trademark ornate gates reportedly patterned after that of London's Buckingham Palace; Botanical Garden with its array of ornamental plants and huts that are representative of the Igorot dwellings found in the Cordilleras; and the Mines View Park overlooking the non-existent, already depleted gold, silver and ore mines below.

Just past the city center along Loakan Road near the Airport is Camp John Hay, a former recreational facility for the American troops. Its par-69 18-hole golf course is its main draw for the golfing aficionados along with the parks, eco-trails, and evergreen picnic grounds. Visitors can also drop by the Cemetery of Negativism, Bell Amphitheatre, and the horse bridle path.

In the outskirts of the city before the border of neighbouring town of La Trinidad, the Bell Church is a magnificent cluster of temples sitting on top of a hill. Typical Oriental architectural motifs are seen throughoutpagoda roofs, dragon figures and a lotus pond in the centredefinitely a crowd-drawer for most local tourists who want to sample a little of China in this part of the Philippines. For those interested to have their fortunes told, this Taoist temple also offers fortune-telling sessions for a small fee. Perhaps receiving more than its fair share of devotees is the Baguio Cathedral, one of Baguio's major landmarks. Sundays see this twin-spired church packed to the brim, its parking lot recently growing into a mini-promenade with cafes and restaurants with views of the bustling Session Road, the city's main commercial artery.

For those wanting to know more about local lore, museums though not that extensive provide good insights into the city and the province. At the Baguio Convention Center, indigenous arts and crafts are on display and visitors can see a timeline of the city's past. Whilst further up the Loakan Road, the Philippine Military Academy, established in the same mold as the Westpoint in the US, houses some war memorabilia. But perhaps the Academy is more known during Parade Day as grounds take on a more jovial mood on Saturday mornings when the cadets march in their full regalia.

On a different albeit spooky note, the smallish Benguet Provincial Museum beside the capitol building of La Trinidad has a display of mummies, traditional household tools and weaponry used by the Igorots. Information in one corner makes quite a good readfrom outlining the differences between Egyptian and Benguet mummies to how an ancient mummy was returned to its original mountain abode after being stolen for decades. Though the Benguet tribes namely Kankana-ey, Ibaloi and Kalanguya are already attuned to the modern ways, their traditions and customs live on. If at all, you find yourself within the interiors of the Cordilleras, it is best to show respect to their culture so as not to offend them.

Strawberry fields

As for those who don't get the chance to explore beyond Baguio, take a 15-minute taxi ride to Tam-awan Village to have a feel of mountain living. Built in what used to be a grazing land in Pinsao Proper, the village is a replica of a traditional Cordillera community with reconstructed huts made of hand-hewn pine wood and thatched roofs. The village is a popular haunt of Baguio artists who regularly hold exhibits in the compound and an eclectic mix of workshops from painting, pottery, paper-making to performance arts. One can even see as far as the South China Sea on a cloudless day if one stands on the topmost part of the village. Hand-painted shirts, crafts and the usual postcards are available in the souvenir shop.

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Entertainment and Eating Out
Dining and nightlife is found mainly along Session Road, the bustling hub of commercial activity in Baguio. Though more bars are scattered throughout the city, most are seedy and even dangerous. Street muggers and pickpockets have been known to do the rounds even in the middle of the day.

The whole stretch of Session Road features a motley array of dining options. Surprisingly there is a good set of Chinese restaurants perhaps taking advantage of the fresh and good varieties of vegetables Baguio has to offer. Hop on to Star Café for hefty portions of fried rice and corn soup or their breads and pies; the adjacent Dainty Restaurant offers good coffee and noodles too. Then sample the Beef Brisket at Yan Chow (which also offers a live band at night) tucked in Assumption Road, one of the side alleys connected to Session.

For light eaters, the Swiss Made Euro Deli has gourmet sandwiches, great coffee and hot chocolate served in big mugs. This cafe has eye-catching blue and red interiors and is most frequented by the university crowd. Whilst folksy music, cheap beer and cocktails make Le Fondue at La Azotea Building the timeless watering hole in the city. Local artists even peddle their wares like shirts and silver crafts at the ground floor when nighttime comes.

Don Henrico's pizza and pasta dishes are still the most sought-after among locals and visitors from Manila. Lunch and dinner times draw in long queues at the door. Again, hearty portions are served at prices that won't hurt the pocket. Another locally famous spot is Café by the Ruins over at Chuntug St. near the City Hall. It is known for excellent albeit pricey organic fare and its rustic ambience.

More nightly choices can be discovered in the small bars and restaurants that make up Nevada Square in Loakan Road and inside Camp John Hay.

Around Burnham Park, all sorts of roasted delicacies are sold from barbecue stalls and streetside eateries - one can smell the smoke-filled air away from the park especially when chilly night breezes in.

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Shopping
If the attractions in Baguio are a bit of a letdown, fortunately there is much to fill your shopping bags with. You won't be leaving empty-handed as the city has lots to offer with its strawberries, woven or knitted crafts, silver jewelry, flowers, vegetables, jams and jellies.

Session Road

A trip to Baguio is not complete without sampling the sweet strawberries, long been recognised as the city's claim-to-fame. Stalls at the city market throb with the rich redness of mounds and mounds of strawberries especially during weekendswhen prices do soar as sellers smell the tourists dollar. If you want them cheaper head on out to the Strawberry Fields along Km 6 in La Trinidad, 15 minutes away from the Bell Church. From December to the summer months of May and June, the rows are filled with red succulent fruits ready for the picking. Stalls selling all sorts of souvenirs and local crafts dot the dirt road beside the fields.

Back to the city market, all of Baguio's specialties are housed in this confusing maze of stalls. Along with strawberries, the inner sections sell local treats like peanut brittle, a chockfull of nuts doused in hardened heavy syrup; jams made of taro; and chocolate-coated corn flakes. In the vegetables section, you'll find affordably-priced cauliflower, broccoli, string beans, and carrots to name a few. In another narrow alley, the scent of roses fill the air as you reach the cut flower area where roses are dirt cheap (around US50 cents) by the dozen. And if you follow the unmistakable whiff of coffee beans, your nose will lead you to the stalls selling dark and rich mountain-grown varieties that are not as expensive as those sold in popular coffee shops. On the outer nodes of the market, you will chance upon handicrafts, knitwear, silver jewelry, and the most recent addition to Baguio's local commodity, vintage clothing and shoes.

If you want better selections of each of the products above, it helps to know where the good shops are! For silver crafts, the Ibay's Silver Shop near the local campus of the University of the Philippines is a must-visit. The outlet along Session Road is not as extensive as this main shop. If it's fine woven bags, tapestries, clothes and antiques you're after, Narda's Antiques and Woodcrafts at Session Road Extension is your best bet as the owner herself is highly-acclaimed in the export trade. Lastly, for fresh hot-off-the-oven cookies, taro jams, peanut brittle and other baked goodies, the Good Shepherd Convent located in Mines View Park is a popular stop before heading back to Manila. The jams hit the racks straight from the kitchens, lids still half-open to let it 'breathe', guarding against spoilage. Regular patrons let the bottles air out until they are cooled and ready for the fridge.

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Tours
Hotels, some but not all, offer tour information and packages. For reliable guided tours, opt for Swagman Travel at 92 Upper General Luna street, Corfu Village, just off Leonard Wood.

Baguio, being the gateway to the North, is the perfect starting point to your exploits further up. The famous rice terraces in Banaue, Ifugao Province is an eight-hour bus ride from the city. These architectural wonders, recognised as a World Heritage Site, can be viewed best when the stairways are green with rice stalks during May to June. Two hours from Banaue is the breathtaking idyllic mountain-top town of Sagada, known for its hanging coffins, limestone caves, impressive waterfalls, and biting-cold temperatures. Travelling the dusty and bumpy narrow mountain roads can be long and arduous but the sight of clouds touching the tips of pine trees can be just as relaxing as a sip of mountain tea or coffee in any of the quaint restaurants.

Mountain trekkers also favour Baguio as a stopover enroute to a 2-day hike to Mount Pulog, the second highest peak in the country. And for those wanting to see more mummies, a five-hour trip to Kabayan takes you to caves and crevices with over 200 mummies buried in small coffins. Again, it is best to seek help from locals before exploring as some caves have already been desecrated by those hoping to sell these 'antique' finds in curio shops in Europe which reportedly pay top dollar for a mummy.

Alternatively, tours to Banaue and Sagada can depart straight from Manila without having to pass Baguio. The trip takes a back-burning nine-hour drive to reach Banaue then another couple of hours to Sagada. Buses traverse the Mt. Halsema Express, a rolling network of narrow roads with truly scenic views not for the faint-hearted. Recommended gear for this trip is a handy mask to fight the dust and a thick jacket once you pass the highest elevated point in the Philippine Highway system measuring to 2,255 metres above sea level.

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Baguio Cathedral

Getting From A to B
Taxis are generally safe for tourists. Drivers abide by the meter, even returning loose change down to the last peso. Finding the attractions and shopping destinations is not a problem as they are mostly familiar with the touristy spots.

Jeepneys are plenty but routes around and in the outskirts of the city are a bit confusing for the uninitiated. Terminals are found in Burnham Park and near the City Market.

Buses from and to Manila can be spotted in their terminals, a short distance from Session Road whilst those going further North are located along Magsaysay Avenue or near the market.

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Tourist Information Offices
The Tourism Office on Governor Pack Road offers general though not updated information. Travel agencies like Swagman Travel can be a great help for maps, guided tours and visa inquiries.

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Cyber Baguio
There is a growing presence of internet cafes found in most streets and inside the shopping malls that offer basic servicesa relief as hotels don't offer reliable internet connection or nothing at all.

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Events
The biggest festival in Baguio City definitely paints the town red in February for Panagbenga or Flower Festival. Similar to the Rose Bowl in California, the streets and parks are flooded with floral arrangements whilst parades passing throughout the main thoroughfares see a bevy of colourful floats decked in roses. Flowers thrive during this coldest time of the year in the city.

Holy Week just before Easter in late March or early April draws in the crowds who take holidays off from work and take a respite in the 'city of pines'. Hotels and lodging houses charge special rates and are fully booked. Thus it is wise to book well in advance.

Golf tournaments are scattered throughout the year when most country clubs are full and so are the serviced apartments within. Baguio Arts Festival in November celebrates local craftsmanship in both visual and performing arts.

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Photos courtesy of Philippine Department of Tourism

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