South Korea guide

Although it may feel quite complete to the visitor, South Korea is only one half of a nation. Geographically the Korean peninsula was never well placed – sandwiched between China and Japan, it spent centuries being invaded from one side or the other. Things did not get much easier when Russia expanded into the frame and colonial powers came knocking. Looking at the map, Korea sticks out like North Asia's sore thumb. Too tempting to ignore, it has endured a long history of invasions and occupations, and it is of little surprise that Korea became introverted and insular, shunning the outside world. A century ago the West referred to Korea as "The Hermit Kingdom" but Koreans have learned that the world just will not have it that way.

In the 20^th century Korean streets echoed to a variety of military boots – including Japanese, Chinese and American. The Korean War tore through the nation after the surrender of the Japanese at the end of World War II and came to symbolise the world's political struggle of the age. Other nations leapt into the ideological battleground, the devastating war ended in stalemate and the nation broke in two following armistice in 1953. For the past 50 years Korea has been split between North and South.

Today the communist North remains very much the international hermit and is jammed in a political time warp. Strident Stalinist statues boldly salute the continuing cold war. As the world's most heavily fortified and sensitive border, the demilitarised zone (DMZ) separates the two Koreas. Thousands of armed forces are poised either side of the buffer that is roughly four kilometres wide.

Taejongdae Park, Pusan

South Korea is a total contrast to its northern neighbour, and has diverged into a modern industrialised powerhouse. South of the demarcation line the peninsula liberally sprouts manufacturing plants and heavy industry, yet untouched countryside remains in many parts. South Korea enjoys a temperate climate with four seasons, the best times to go being the autumn and the spring. In autumn the countryside breaks into vivid reds and golds, and spring is popular for the gentle tree blossoms. Sticky summer sees the country pummelled by typhoons and winter is for the most part extremely cold.

The country is by no means overrun by mass tourism. A high proportion of visitors are on short breaks from Japan and China, although the strong US influence sees quite a few Americans shuttling through mainly on business. There is less to see and do when compared with some other countries in Asia, a legacy perhaps of war, pillage and economic boom. The modern capital Seoul is a sprawling – but not unpleasant – metropolis rather bereft of authentic cultural attractions. It offers some temples and palaces, though mostly reconstructed rather than restored. But one unforgettable highlight for foreigners is the surreal tour to the DMZ. Weird but engaging attractions here include exploring invasion tunnels and peering at mysterious North Korea through the observation point's telescopes.

Myong-dong Shopping District, Seoul

Seoul's shopping is also extensive with comparatively low prices attracting waves of Japanese shoppers. Restaurants cater mainly for the Asian palate. A visit to Korea is certainly not complete without munching on some kimchi – salted and spicy cabbage. It does not look exciting but one of the first questions Koreans will ask you is if you have tried it.

In the south, a short way from the port city of Pusan lies the unusual ancient site of Gyeongju, a delightful historic area spanning across the plains and hills. Gyeongju is dotted with tombs and cultural artefacts and was luckily spared destruction during all of the invasions of the past 1,000 years. South Korea also has come beautiful natural scenery – wonderful sweeping mountains for hikers, good golf courses plus several acceptable ski resorts and to the south the tourist beaches of Cheju Island.

Visitors tend to find hotels to be big and glitzy but well maintained. Some of the newer ones are as good as any in Asia. Koreans are wonderful hosts, being welcoming and friendly, and the vast majority of hotels convey this although English can be a problem away from the top ones. Unfortunately, since Seoul is home to a quarter of the population, property prices have shot up higher than a North Korean missile and hotels are stiffly priced, and this seems to have set the benchmark for the rest of the country.

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