Introduction

Sulamani Temple

Breathtaking Bagan is one of the most important archeological sites in Asia and a truly stunning sight. Scattered over a remote and semi-arid plain near Central Myanmar are literally thousands of temples, stretching as far as the eye can see. They are mostly redbrick and date back a thousand years to the glorious Bagan era. The temples arent spectacular individually but their sheer numbers are overwhelming.

Bagan is a real backwater - underdeveloped, remote and very quiet. Bagan is not even a town. Its merely a loose collection of villages with little more than a few simple restaurants, cheap souvenir shops and a scruffy airstrip. Besides the magnificent temples theres virtually nothing else to see or do.

How long youll stay depends on your affinity for temples. You could spend weeks, but most people find two to three days is plenty. Enjoy the view - there is no sunset like this anywhere else in the world. It is absolutely awesome.

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Temples
With 4000 temples and mounds - where do you start? The list below outlines some of the more impressive and characteristic ones. But hundreds of other lesser versions dot the plains, and wandering around the forgotten ones can be most rewarding.

Mount Popa

The largest and most important is graceful Ananda, built with a cross-shaped floor plan, giving it the interior proportions of a church. This bold whitewashed temple contrasts with the other mostly redbrick versions, with ornate trimmings and fancy spires setting it clearly apart. The spires were recently layered with gold leaf and glow majestically at sunset. Inside is a beautiful golden standing Buddha and next door, a small chapel with some fine old murals.

Note: Despite paying your zone fee, Ananda and some other large temples charge negligible entrance fees and rather annoying camera taxes. Carry small change.

The Schwezigon Pagoda sounds and looks like its grander counterpart in Yangon. Being the only local temple totally coated with gleaming gold, the large bulbous bell-shaped stupa is hard to miss, particularly at night when it is lit up by half of Bagans shaky electrical power. The square-based stupa is topped with a fine jewel that can be admired through a telescope. Nearby a multi-coloured crate contains a friendly inhabitant claiming to own the worlds smallest darkroom.

The huge and pyramid-shaped Dhammayangyi looks a little clumsy from the distance. Built by a tyrant king to atone for the murder of his father and brother, it is the biggest of the lot. The king was despised by his subjects, as he killed one too many. After his assassination they filled it with rubble to insult his memory. Only the bare and echoing outer corridors can be explored, the inner ones are impassable. The visible high and narrow arch shaped corridors look like those of European castles. Theres not much to see here, other than Bagans tidiest brickwork, and sadly it cant be climbed either. Bulky and rather ugly.

Its difficult to miss the enormous and majestic Thatbyinnyu standing proudly on the plain. Lengthy corridors and chambers within are worth exploring, and with its fine little spires and trimmings it has a solid yet ornate balance. Being the highest, this whitewashed and almost cathedral-like temple has a good vantage point over Bagan, although it is no longer permitted to climb right to the top. The flamboyant doorways are worth a snap.

Another one of Bagans giants, Sulamani is a vaguely layered pyramid popular for the Buddha statues and lively paintings within. Earthquake damage is visible and the structure may only be climbed halfway. The fairly central location lends panoramic views. Along its sun-lit corridors are seated Buddhas and some well-preserved frescoes of elephants.

Schwezigon Pagoda

Tidy Gubyaukgyi is quite small and comparatively low and best appreciated close up. Atop is a rather strange spire with the outline of a spark plug. A dark interior yields its enchanting and detailed murals - perhaps Bagans finest. Most of Bagans stuccowork has crumbled away but the stucco sculptures on the exterior of this temple are in particularly good shape.

Several other temples offer wonderful frescoes. The most complete collection is probably inside the dark and musty Abeyadana. The dungeon-style windows allow a little gloomy light in. Candles are provided so you can peer through the protective metal grids to appreciate the fine artistry. Nagayon has some eye-catching wall paintings of Buddhas life and the Buddha statue within is protected under the hood of a Naga, a mythical cobra-dragon.

Note: most temples lack lighting but torch wielding locals enable you to appreciate the murals and navigate steep stairways for a tip.

Theres an interesting tale behind the unusual Manuha Paya. From the exterior it appears quite ordinary, but once inside youll have to clamber round four gigantic Buddha statues squashed tightly inside the modest structure. The three sitting statues and single reclining one are virtually cocooned within. A neighbouring King was captured but allowed to build a temple and came up with this. The claustrophobia is said to express his anguish at imprisonment.

More than 2000 temples

Pocket-sized Nanpaya looks rather box-like and anonymous from the outside, but is interesting within. Nanpayas small chamber contains rare stone bas-reliefs of superb workmanship and preservation. A relief portraying a 4-faced Hindu Brahma dances directly opposite a statue of Buddha, a rare combination.

Quite a contrast to the other more balanced shapes on the plains is Mahabodhi, inspired by Bodh Gaya in India. Mahabodhi has unique proportions and is capped with a strikingly stretched pyramidal tower. The temple exterior and spire are adorned with some of the most elaborate decoration in Bagan.

Many will advise you to finish your day at Bupaya Pagoda on the riverbank for sunset. It was a nice spot once, but now becomes a total circus at sunset with buses pulling in and crowds of sellers - and youll have to pay small fees for the privilege. This hectic and noisy sunset is best avoided. The lotus-bud temple is rather forgettable, most head straight for the riverboats at the jetty nearby. Sunset trips are predictably pricey, and its much better to charter one earlier and find a quiet bit of river. To be frank, the sunset view of the temples beats the river hands down - there are hundreds of better vantage points across the plains.

Mingalazedi

Near the riverside the great big brick stupa of Mingalazedi is a favourite at sunset when a mini crafts market pops up at its foot. Its a steep and precarious climb but the views are very satisfying, and although this stupa is quite active, its much more laid back than stressful Bupaya. Mingalazedi was the last of the great pagodas and some of its glazed tiles have made it all the way to the 21st century.

Note: Bagans temples are no relics, shoes must be removed and modest dress strongly encouraged. Thankfully for your feet, redbrick floors dont sizzle like tiles do, but rough surfaces and little stones may have you waving your arms around off balance, especially in the dark interiors.

Theres only one attraction thats not a temple - the cavernous Bagan Archeological Museum. Built to impress the visitor, its a blot on an otherwise breathtaking landscape, but the best museum in the country. Good stone slabs and bronzes are displayed, and there are some creative displays like the exhibition of 50 traditional hairstyles.

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Entertainment and Eating Out
Temples, temples, temples - and thats it. Dining choices are basic, limited and disappointing. Most restaurants are in New Bagan a little south of temple studded Old Bagan and are budget style with very cheap menus. There is nowhere you can go for a top meal, although international level food does exist. Entertainment is scarce and nightlife zero.

Comparatively good open riverside restaurants include the Sunset Garden, River View Restaurant and the Si Thu Restaurant. Sunset Garden churns out some good seafood dishes. Si Thu isnt bad and is popular in the evenings for its traditional shows. The performance is hilariously amateur - clueless dancers forget their moves, string puppets get tangled and wrapped round displays - all part of its unintentional appeal.

For a Burmese or Chinese meal with a night view of the glowing gold Schwezigon Pagoda, try the Nanda restaurant. It is a simple spot, again with interesting attempts at traditional shows.

A few basic Italian restaurants have popped up in recent years. Although they are not quite there yet, Sun Gabar Restaurant does offer an alternative to the endless bowls of rice.

The best Thai dishes are up for grabs at the Thiripyitsaya Sakura hotel. A welcome selection of Western food is on the menu at the Bagan Golfs restaurant.

In terms of leisure there is virtually nothing to do, but the Bagan Golf Course has a unique fairway set amongst thousand-year-old temples. The famous Hole 13 with a par 3 has a magnificent panorama from the greens. Fairways are a bit dry in parts but overall have been well-maintained since the 1998 London Myanmar Open.

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Shopping

Dress code applies

Bagan has no shopping centres and few shops, but its enterprising population manages to conjure up lots of little bits and pieces to buy. All the main temples have makeshift stalls with displays of souvenirs and paintings. The town is almost entirely supported by tourism so expect a high hawker to tourist ratio. Some are annoyingly persistent.

There are probably more paintings than temples in Bagan, with cheap and cheerful efforts for sale everywhere. Most arent bad, some look very good, but bide your time and haggle - the supply is endless.

The town is famed for one product in particular, lacquer ware. Its everywhere and can be picked up very cheaply. The good stuff though, is hard to find. Golden Cuckoo has been producing the finest quality wares for decades and exquisite works can be seen in the pricey showroom round the back. Workshops are on-site and they will happily show you around. Worth visiting just to see how lacquer goods are made.

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Cyber Bagan and Banking
The Internet is currently illegal and email is not linked to Bagan. Communications are awful, faxes barely ever get through so youll have to make do with the erratic phone lines. Isolated Mt Popa is even worse, the phones barely get through to Bagan.

After Yangon youll have a better idea of the dire financial operations of Myanmar. Bagan is a rural backwater. You cannot count on anything other than the contents of your own wallet or purse; there are no financial systems to speak of. Even black marketeers seem to be scarce.

The only foreign credit card that is accepted is VISA and only at the few large hotels. Commission rates are between 7 and 10%.

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Tours

Temples in the plains

Temple tours are easily arranged. Theres little to see around Bagan, but two destinations are certainly worth considering.

The nearby little town of Salay offers another dose of temples, and some old British architecture. The teak Yoke Sone Monastery is over a century old and incorporates some beautiful carvings and antiques. Salay is only 15km away and easily reached by car, or better, take a relaxing boat and soak up the life along the Irrawaddy River.

Mystical Mt. Popa is home of Myanmars spirits - the Nats. Standing proud atop a volcanic plug blown out of the adjacent volcano is one of Myanmars most sacred monasteries, and its quite a sight. Its very quiet with the only activity seeming to come from the troops of lazy monkeys. The surrounding area has a green national park thriving with life - quite a contrast to dry Bagan. Treks to the peak of the volcano and bird watching are available. Well worth stopping over on the road to Mandalay.

A fantastic tour, if you can afford it, is the champagne breakfast in a hot air balloon over the majestic plains. This is best appreciated during the clearer months, between September and February, when sunrise views are incomparable.

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Getting From A to B

Gubyaukgyi

The temples are spread over a large area and to see Bagans best will require transport.

The hotels are all within sight of temples. You can just head out and explore on foot but you wont cover that much and it gets very hot. Still, it is fun to stroll among the endless and more anonymous ruins and its easy to find fields of temples all to yourself.

A bicycle is an excellent way of delving deeper. You can sail across the plains and get a bicycle down most of the dusty footpaths that wind away from the roads. The plains are quite flat, but youll need to be fit - the heat wilts many a cyclist. Perhaps best for an hour or so at sunset.

It feels somehow suitable to trot around the ruins with a horse and cart. They congregate near main hotels and by the river and can be haggled for only a dollar or two for a day. The horsemen make good and friendly guides.

Boats are available next to the Bupaya Pagoda for short trips down the peaceful Irrawaddy River. The Irrawaddy Princess sails weekly between Bagan and Mandalay during the peak months of May to September. The Princess leaves Mandalay at noon on Thursday and pulls into Bagan Friday evening. The reverse cruise leaves Sunday evening and takes a day.

The most comfortable way to get around the hot, dusty terrain is definitely with an air-conditioned car and drivers will chauffer you around for a reasonable rate. They can take you to Mt Popa and Mandalay for the same price as an airfare. Inle Lake is an option in the dry season but forget any overland trip to Mrauk U. Although it looks close on the map, the roads barely exist and it apparently takes a car at least 3 days to get there - if at all!

Small and shabby Nyaung U Airport is only 10 minutes or so from Old Bagan and the hotels. Foreign arrivals need to pay a 10USD archeological zone fee.

Note: Getting transport from the airport is a stressful affair if you have no pick-up. A group of uncooperative taxi drivers will do their utmost to mislead and swindle you into paying the equivalent of a weeks pay for a quick drop-off. Some can be aggressive. Stand your ground, eventually one will creep up and mumble something more reasonable.

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Events
Bagan has some of Myanmars greatest temples hosting plenty of festivals, many coinciding with a full moon. Offerings and prayers focus on various temples throughout the year. September sees both the Lawkananda and Manuha Festivals. Golden Schwezigon is the focus of attention in December.

Starting on 4th January Independence Day sees the country filled with lively and enjoyable fairs for a week. This may overlap with Januarys busy Ananda Festival, which honours Bagans most important temple.

The most enjoyable festival is the outrageous 3-day Water Festival in baking mid-April. Supposedly a religious celebration of the start of the New Year, the festival always ends up being a water-fight of national proportions. Absolutely everyone who ventures out gets drenched by hit squads armed with buckets of water, sometimes from different directions at once. There is no mercy - shocked tourists, monks and old ladies - no one is spared. Playful kidnappings and jokes accompany the madness, wild fun.

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Tourist Information Offices
There are a few pamphlets available at the airport and the staff collecting your archeological fee will answer predictable questions. Most of the detailed temple information seems to be in your guides head. Bagan is very much a word of mouth place, but hotels can help with broader issues.

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