Nepal guide

This fabled Himalayan kingdom has seen its unfair share of trouble in recent years, from the massacre of many of the leading members of its royal family in June 2001 to continuing problems with Maoist insurgents. Many of the more remote areas of Nepal are now off-limits to foreigners, and visitors should pay special attention to government travel advisories. Yet while the country is no longer automatically synonymous with Shangri-La, its natural beauty, historical wonders and generally hospitable inhabitants are little changed.

While usually viewed as a destination for hearty trekkers, river rafters, and mountain climbers or bikers, Nepal exercises equal appeal for anyone content to shop, visit the myriad of temples and palaces and take in the Himalayas from the comfort of a specially chartered mountain flight. Much of the country is drenched by a monsoon from June to September, so it is best to visit during the rest of the year. While it can be sunny by day during the winter months, it can be bitterly cold at nights, especially at altitude.

Mt. Everest, Kathmandu

Most visitors fly into the capital, Kathmandu, a city that traces its history to medieval times and beyond, although old brick buildings are gradually being replaced with concrete, and pollution from an increasing number of motor vehicles is rearing its ugly head. It would be perfectly possible to spend a fortnight or more exploring the valley, venturing out to the towns of Patan and Bhaktapur, taking in the vast panorama of the Himalayas from the ridgetop at Nagarkot, and wandering the bazaars and backstreets of Kathmandu itself. Pokhara is one of the main jumping off points for trekking as it sits on the old trade route linking Tibet and India. Further south, Nepal's character changes completely in the Terai, a totally flat area where jungles are still roamed by tiger and rhino. One of the best vacations here combines sightseeing in Kathmandu, trekking around Pokhara and concludes with a wildlife safari.

Accommodation has moved on from the 1960s, when Nepal was besieged by hippies in search of their own personal Nirvana. While there are still plenty of low-budget guesthouses around, international standards of comfort and service are becoming the norm, whether in the old established hotels or newly built ones. The Banyan Tree is planning to open in Nepal's second city, Pokhara, next year, and other mainstream brands are already up and operating in Kathmandu.

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