Japan guide

What is the quintessential Japanese hotel? One of the gargantuan world-class 5-stars that dot Tokyo and other major cities, a traditional ryokan with sliding paper doors, futons and tatami mats, or one of the multi-themed, psychedelic love shacks that get rented out by the hour? Japan's gallimaufry of accommodation provides some clue to the national character. It is a country of extremes and contradictions, one that is as entranced as much by the art of bonsai as by Hello Kitty, as entertained by Disneyland as it is by Noh plays, one that can celebrate the marine beauty of Matsushima Bay (officially dubbed one of the "Three Great Sights" of Japan) while allowing a power station to be built right next to it.

Japan, formerly known for an economic vigour that spread its cars, stereos and computers around the world, now faces a variety of problems ranging from deflation to bad debt burdens. How it tackles these will greatly shape its role both in Asia – where it remains the most successful industrial economy – and the rest of the world.

Japan is made up of some 1,000 island, strung out in a 3,000-kilometre chain from the icy border with Russia to the tropical climes of Okinawa. The Shinkansen, or Bullet Train, system is one of the miracles of Japan, linking much of the country at speeds of up to 300 kilometres per hour and making punctuality a rule rather than an exception. Quite apart from anything else, the Shinkansen means that visitors can take in an enormous amount of Japan in the matter of a few days. Tokyo remains one of the most vibrant cities in Asia, contrasting starkly with Kyoto, whose temples, shrines and gardens mark the cultural heart of Japan. Many venture no further than these two centres, but further west the drab town of Himeji is crowned by a 5-century-old castle which is one of a handful in the country to have survived in its original (non-concrete) form. Little remained of Hiroshima after the first atomic

Mount Fuji

bomb was detonated in 1945, and its Peace Park stands in mute testament to the horrors of war and the folly of Japanese militarism. From the sublime to the ridiculous: Huis Ten Bosch, near Nagasaki, is an amusement park incorporating perfect replicas of many of Holland's most scenic buildings, plus windmills, canals and tulips. Away from the cities, there are excellent opportunities for hiking in the mountains, especially in Daisetsuzan National Park on Hokkaido, and the skiing is good even if it is almost as exorbitantly priced as golf. Down south, there are jungle walks, river kayaking and scuba-diving on the remote island of Iriomote Jima. Japan's geological make-up has both a good and a bad side – the ever-present danger of earthquake, but also myriad onsen or hot springs where you can immerse yourself and rejuvenate after a tiring day.

Hotels in Japan tend to be pricier than in the rest of Asia, in some cases with some reason, but many mid-range hotels are run-down with shabby service and facilities. But there is an enormous range of choice, from the infamous "capsule" hotels to glittering properties like the Park Hyatt Tokyo. In between there is the charm of ryokan and the rather less traditional minshuku, which are more like bed and breakfasts, while the hoteru abec of Love Hotel Hill in Tokyo's Shibuya district are definitely worth a gander, even if you are not in the mood!

Heian Shrine, Kyoto

Less worldly Japanese sometimes tell visitors at length and with great pride that their country experiences four seasons, and they are indeed quite distinct. Spring (March to May) brings clear skies and cherry blossoms, summer can be sweatily uncomfortable, autumn leaves between September and November turn rural Japan into its most picturesque, while the winter months can be distinctly cold, especially in the northern islands. But 20 degrees south, at the other end of the archipelago, even December is reasonably balmy.

New Year and Golden Week (April 27 to May 6) are best avoided by visitors as much of Japan is on the move at these times, filling hotels, trains and planes to the max. Other festivals – such as Kyoto's Gion Matsuri parade of exotic floats every July, or the slightly later O Bon when lanterns are floated on water and rivers all over the country – are well worth seeing.

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