Town Crier
January/February
2004
Vietnam Vacation, p. 20
Patong, Kuta
and Boracay have long been revered by beach bums for their sun,
sand and party vibe. Many bonfire tales compare these popular Asian
destinations to famous beach lifestyles of Australia and Brazil.
The fun, however, seems to take its toll on nature, as the pace
at which hotel chains throw up their resorts overtakes the gentle
ebb and flow of local life. And more often than not, any sun worshipper
can sense a prosaic existence amidst the revelry and modern conveniences
on hand.
So if you dread another party at the beach and would like a respite
from the conga line, then do what most Vietnamese do on weekends
to escape from bustling Ho Chi Minh City. Travel 195km east - four
hours by bus- to reach the sleepy coastal locale of Phan Thiet.
A series of lush green undulating hills and a secluded dune-covered
coastline embrace this peaceful far-flung retreat with a population
of just 200,000.
The remote setting brings with it a laid-back easy attitude. There's
nothing much else to do but sit on a beach (as some resorts don't
have TV sets) and concentrate on a good book as time crawls by.
When darkness envelops town, the handful of bars and restaurants
come alive, but not with the vigorous city-style atmosphere of Pattaya;
Phan Thiet is a low-key even at night.
Sophisticated resorts have arisen over the past few years but this
small town in Binh Thuan province remains the quaint fishing village
that it has always been. Tourism efforts are riding on its 'Hawaii
of Vietnam' image but the locals are oblivious, staying true to
their fishing nets. For them, the source of income still comes from
the sea, as fishermen here are well known producers of Nuoc Mam,
the pungent Vietnamese fish sauce.
Venturing into town early in the morning, visitors witness the most
vibrant time of day for the local population. The entire place is
abuzz with commercial activity as the freshest of catches, in all
shapes and sizes, are landed. Housewives bargain left and right.
Men heave ice-laded carts. Noise comes from every direction and
the heavy smell of fish wafts throughout.
This morning market is the most action you will see and provides
plenty of photo opportunities to add to the holiday scrapbook.
Rippling Red
The beaches, though not numerous, are clean and serenely calm. Mui
Ne, ten minutes from town, can be considered the main tourist area
with the highest concentration of resorts by the beach and a few
restaurants on the other side of the straight and narrow road. Further
afield is Ca Na where the waters are more pristine and the sandy
beaches whiter.
But perhaps more worthy of your rolls of film are the red sand dunes
found inland away from the beach at Mui Ne. A manageable but steep
climb to the top gives sweeping views of smooth velvety mounds that
cascade up and down. A shift of wind instantly transforms the dunes,
giving this vast and breathtaking sight a different appearance as
the ripples sway in a new direction. Rent a plastic sheet from one
of the local kids for a fun trip down.
More dunes can be reached if you have the time for a bumpy bus ride
to White Lake, found 65km northeast. Beautiful white dunes, many
covered by thick green vegetation, border the waters. The sight
of lotus flowers blooming along the edge of the lake is stunning.
Boning Up
Another important item on the itinerary is the Thuy Tu Fishermen's
Association, inside which tons of whalebones, some over 100 years
old are displayed. Looking much like a Chinese temple, the place
speaks of intrigue and tradition in the lives of the fishermen.
Over a century ago, whales were spotted off the surrounding coast
which the townsfolk believed to be gods guiding and protecting them.
When a whale died, the remains were buried in the grounds of the
Association. After a few years the bones were enshrined in the pagoda
for worship. The practice continues in this day. The biggest in
the collection is the fin whale, which is over 120 years old, 22
meters long and weighs over 65 tons.
A similarly massive religious icon just 30km south of town is the
Buddha of Ta Cu Mountain. The statue reclines to a length of 49
metres and is 10 metres high. It takes a bit of hiking - all of
90 minutes - to get a glimpse of the Buddha but the spectacular
view from the peak is a big reward.
And that is about all you will find in Phan Thiet. This small fishing
port is undoubtedly underdeveloped in comparison to other well known
sandy havens elsewhere in Asia. If you find yourself wanting a different,
more relaxed ambience, then the slow-paced lull of Phan Thiet is
a perfect choice.
How to get there
Vietnam Airlines has regular scheduled flights to Ho Chi Minh City.
From there, buses to Phan Thiet are available. They also connect
from Nha Trang and Dalat.
Best time to visit - November to May
Recommended Places to Stay
Budget - Bamboo Village Beach Resort
Mid Range - Coco Beach Hai Duong Resort
High-end - Novotel Coralia Ocean Dunes & Golf Resort
For more information on hotels and resorts in Phan Thiet, go to
http://www.asiahotels.com/hl/Phan_Thiet-Vietnam.asp.
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