|
Holiday Asia
November / December
2003
East Malaysia - On the Road Again, p.33
By Jon Stonham,
founder of asia-hotels.com
When you think
of an Asian road trip, you probably think about traffic jams and
signs you can't read; aggressive drivers in very large lorries,
bad drivers in brand new Mercedes; vague border crossings; and those
brinkmanship battles that are played out daily in most Asian countries.
When you think of an Asian road trip, you probably think: "You
must be kidding!" Welcome to Malaysia, which touts both the
destinations to justify the journey and the infrastructure to travel
safely. Peninsular Malaysia has an incredible network of modern
roads, clear signage and, perhaps more importantly, a driving public
that is both courteous and careful.
Desaru: Beyond
the City Lights
Some 90 kilometers from the causeway linking Singapore to Johor
Bahru, Desaru came to prominence during the building boom of the
1980s. Its clear sandy beaches and manicured golf courses provided
a condo-style escape for weekending Singaporeans. The subsequent
market collapse left many resorts unviable and apartment blocks
unfinished, so the old 30-minute car ferry from Changi Pier to Tanjung
Belungkor has been replaced by a limited passenger ferry service
operated by Star Ferries. And while a storm has ravaged so much
of the forest, the peaceful region makes a good starting point for
any day trip up the east coast. The Japanese-owned-and-managed Desaru
Perdana Beach Resort still makes an effort to maintain international
standards (60-7/822-2222, www.desaruperdana.com.sg. From RM175 net).
Heading north on routes 90, then 99, the oil palms that have replaced
most of Johor's forests dominate the landscape. The road passes
British-built pillboxes that spectacularly failed to defend Singapore
in World War II before joining route 3 to Mersing. For a Robinson
Crusoe experience, turn off to Tanjung Leman, 50 kilometers south
of Mersing. This remote ferry terminal serves such islands as Sibu
and Tinggi - and their resorts, which are rustic to the extreme.
Here generators provide electricity, hot water is by no means guaranteed
and mobile phones have no reception. It may be hell for some, but
it's a welcome heaven for others. If you fall into the latter category,
make the 20-minute speedboat crossing and wade ashore. You'll be
rewarded with pristine sand and blissful tranquility. Intimate resorts
such as the Sea Gypsy Village Resort and Dive Base, make a great
place to read a book, snorkel and truly unwind (60-7/222-8642, www.siburesort.com.
From RM225, including breakfast)
Tioman-Pahang
Mersing is really only famous for being the stepping off point to
one of the worlds most beautiful islands, Tioman, the film set of
South Pacific in the 1950s. Tioman is still truly stunning, despite
the pressures of mass tourism, with it's white sands, volcanic peaks,
towering rainforest canopy and clear blue waters. Trekking, snorkeling
and driving are favorite activities, although some of the coral
has degraded somewhat. One must is a boat ride to picturesque Monkey
Bay, armed with a loaf of bread for frenzied fish feeding. Berjaya
Tioman Beach Resort, complete with 18-hole golf course, is the largest
and only international standard hotel on Tioman (60-9/419-1000,
www.berjayaresorts.com.my. From RM278 net). Over 400 rustic three-star
chalets sprawl along a lovely stretch of beach on Kampung Tekek.
There is also the popular, well run Salang Sayang (Zaid's Place)
in Kampung Salang to the north (60-9/419-5020, www.salangsayangtioman.com.
From RM60), but Paya Beach Resort south of Tekek is also good (www.payabeach.com.
From RM180). Ferries to Tioman depend on the tide but run frequently
enough, with controlled ticket prices. Stormy seas close down many
places Nov-Feb, so ferry runs can get irregular.
Near the border with Pahang, Malaysia's largest state, Johor's oil
palm plantations give way to tense tropical forests interspersed
with stands of banded rubber trees dripping their white sap into
coconut cups. Straddling the two states is Endau Rompin National
Park, one of the largest remaining tracts of virgin rainforest on
the peninsula. Though these trees are protected, the continuous
lines of log-laden lorries heading south are a stark reminder to
the problems Malaysia faces curbing the logging companies. As the
coastal road pushes on toward Kuantan, ravaged forests make a sad
backdrop to the mile after mile of stunning sand beaches, which
go virtually uninterrupted the full length of Pahang state. Much
of this beautiful 200 kilometer roadside stretch stands deserted,
yet each mile away from Singapore reveals a distinct change in the
balance of the melting pot that is Malaysia. Passing huge Petronas
refineries, strings of prawn farms and through the royal town of
Pekan with its pre-war shophouses, the muslim influence grows. The
ladies' tudung veil becomes commonplace as do gilded mosques with
towering minarets, reminders of east coast Malaysia's strong Islamic
culture.
Kuantan-Cherating
In Kuantan, the striking blue and white state mosque dominates the
town center opposite the local ethnic food market with a wonderful
mix of Indian, Chinese, and Malay cuisine. For afternoon snacks
try apam balik, a pancake with peanuts and sweet corn, keropok,
fish crackers popular in the area, otak-otak or satar, fish paste
wrapped in banana leaves, curry puffs, chicken fried rice or deep
fried yau char kwai dough. Pahang's state capital also makes a good
staging post for local tours, to visit the river or fishing villages,
to those further afield, such as to the old tin mine museum at Sungai
Lembing, or to Lake Chini, with its abundant wildlife and blow-piping
aboriginals. Most visitors prefer the beachside resort hotels on
the outskirts of town, such as the friendly Swiss Garden Resort
(60-9/544-7333, www.swissgarden.com. From RM160 net, with breakfast)
or the Hyatt Regency Kuantan on Telok Chempedak (60-9/566-1234,
www.kuantan.regency.hyatt.com. From RM325 net, including breakfast).
Just over 40 kilometers further north, Cherating village, once a
backpackers' haven, has fallen out of favor to almost everyone,
it seems - except the leatherback turtle. These huge reptiles, which
can grow up to three metres in length and weigh over 600 kilograms,
return to Cherating Beach (as well as nearby Rantau and Kuala Abang)
every May-Sep to lay their eggs. It's worth a visit to the turtle
sanctuary set up to protect this endangered species, opposite the
beautifully manicured and managed Club Med Resort that caters for
those who like action packed vacations (60-9/581-9133, www.clubmed.com.
From RM1,100 all-inclusive).
Kuala Dungun-Kuala
Terengganu
Some 100 kilometers north, near Kuala Dungun, is the loveliest resort
on Malaysia's east coast - and probably one of the top five in the
country. The Tanjong Jara, sister to the equally lovely Pangkor
Laut, was built in 1979, when it won the Aga Khan award for outstanding
use of local architecture (60-9/845-1100, www.tanjongjararesort.com.
From RM670 net). Serene gardens, crafted wood rooms and the infinity
pool gazing out to sea all impart a real sense of calm. The menu
is rarely needed, as Ann and her team of chefs conjure up meals
to meet individual tastes using fresh local produce. Though slightly
pricier than other resorts on the coast, this is a real oasis worth
more than a few days' pampering. Do ask the resort's fountain of
knowledge, Captain Mok, to guide you to nearby Seberang Pintasan
where master boat builder Encik Md Noor uses traditional skills
to build local fishing boats out of cengal hardwood. The thick planks
are heated and bent into shape, then pinned into place with pasak
wood nails, the joints sealed with the paper-like bark of galam.
A 50-foot boat takes over six months to complete - and weighs 36
tons.
Beyond boat building, witness silk weaving, kite building, silverwork
and batik painting on the stretch of road to the state capital,
Kuala Terengganu. Watch silk weaving in action at the Sutera Semai
silk factory at Cendering, six kilometers south of town. The Nor
Arfa factory around the corner produces great batiks. Once a small
fishing port, Terengganu has thrived on the oil and gas industries
more recently. While Istana Maziah, it's market place and ceremonial
house, are interesting, the town is more important as stepping off
point for the paradise island of Redang, 50 minutes away by ferry.
Redang
Redang is considerably smaller than Tioman but is equally stunning,
with some top diving. Management at the long established Berjaya
Redang are currently investing considerably in the property and
nearby airstrip (60-9/697-3988, www.berjayaresorts.com. From RM362
net); 135 new rooms perched over the sensational private bay will
open in the middle of next year. Around the corner on Pasir Panjang
are half a dozen resorts, the most significant of which is the Laguna
Redang (60-9/631-0888, www.lagunaredang.com.my. From RM285 net,
including breakfast). But the friendly Coral Island Resort (60-9/626-5011,
www.coralredang.com.my. Double from RM1,070 net for two nights,
all-inclusive) and the hillside located Redang Holliday Beach Villa
(60-9/624-5500, www.designius.com/redang/p06-redangholiday.htm.
Double from RM760 net for two nights, all inclusive) are equally
appealing. Berjaya's ferries run from Terengganu at 9am and 3pm,
while Merang, 40 kilometers north, services the other resorts. As
with Tioman, the ferry times and number of open resorts grow more
erratic during monsoon season.
If time is limited, consider a return from Terengganu airport. Flights
to Kuala Lumpur take 45 minutes with Malasia Airlines (60-3/2165-5319,
www.malaysiaairlines.com.my) or Air Asia (60-3/7651-2222, www.airasia.com).
Alternatively push on north and investigate the attractive Perhentian
Islands and laidback Kota Bahru, the fascinating royal capital of
the fiercely Malay state of Kelantan, right on the Thai border.
It too has a convenient airport.
Langkawi, Penang, Kota Kinbalu and Kuala Lumpur have featured on
most traveler's itineraries, but few venture to Malaysia's east
coast. From Desaru, Singapore's neighbor, through Kuantan and Terengganu
to Kota Bahru, the east coast offers a fascinating insight into
the life and cultures of Malaysia today. Add some 500 kilometers
of deserted beaches, stunning rainforests and exemplary snorkeling
and diving, it is difficult to understand why more do not make the
effort. Be different, think different: take a drive. Selamat jalan.
Behind the
Wheel
Hiring Your
Chariot
Car hire in Malaysia is very simple. Mayflower (60-7/227-1739, www.mayflower.com.my),
Avis (60-7/559-5380, www.avis.com.my), and Hawk (60-7/224-2849,
www.hawkrentacar.com) are three of the better companies, with offices
in Johor Bahru (listed) and countrywide. Rates are about RM140 per
day with unlimited mileage. Car models are usually automatic Protons,
comfortable and economic; gas is cheap. Maps are readily available
from hotels and tourist offices. Cars can be dropped off at different
locations for around RM150. To cover the entire route listed and
allow for some R&R, allow two weeks. Or choose a small section
of the drive and just do that.
Inside Track
Most visitors to Malaysia do not need a visa to enter; check with
your local embassy or consulate. The winter monsoon Nov-Mar makes
the sea rough and driving more challenging. Plan now for a trip
Apr-Oct, but avoid public school holidays, as the roads will be
more crowded, and hotels fuller.
US$1 = RM3.8.
Where to
Stay
Recommended hotels are listed throughout the article. Find details
of these and other Malaysia hotels at www.asiahotels.com.
Glossary
of road signs
Awas - Caution
Hati-hati - Be careful
Simpang Ke - Junction for
Jalan Sehala - One-way
Kurangkan Laju - Slow down
Di Hadapan - Ahead
Ikut Kiri - Keep left
Berhenti - Stop
Beri Laluan - Give way
Pusat Bandar -Town center
Masuk - Entry
Keluar - Exit
Kampung (Kg) - Village
Tanjung (Tg) - Cape
|
